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General views of the main venue for London Fashion Week in that starts from Sept. 17 through Sept. 22, 2010 in London. — PHOTO: AP

LONDON – BRITISH designers were stepping out to prove their worth at the start of London Fashion Week on Friday, after a report put the value of the UK fashion industry at 37 billion pounds (S$77 billion).

Fashion icons Vivienne Westwood, Burberry Prorsum, Pringle of Scotland and Matthew Williamson will feature at this year’s event, alongside London’s emerging talent, hot on the heels of New York Fashion Week. While the London show may not reap the riches of its rivals in New York, Milan and Paris, the ‘Value of the UK Fashion Industry’ report released Thursday showed that fashion in Britain remains big business.

The UK fashion industry has a direct value to the country’s economy of nearly 21 billion pounds and its influence on other industries, ranging from IT to tourism, is worth more than 16 billion pounds, according to research commissioned by the British Fashion Council (BFC). That makes it the equivalent of 44 billion euros or US$58 billion. BFC chairman Harold Tillman described fashion as ‘a great British success story’ but said a ‘national action plan’ was needed to support its development.

Top designers driving the sector’s growth will be staging shows at the grandiose neo-classical Somerset House in central London from Thursday to Wednesday and taking orders for their spring/summer 2011 collections. The event usually generates orders in the region of 100 million pounds, as well as directly contributing 20 million pounds to the London economy, according to BFC.

Kicking off the programme on Friday is menswear designer Paul Costelloe, who says his spring/summer collection is inspired by French fashion designer Madeleine Vionnet and styles of the 1920s and 1930s, ‘reinterpreted with a rock’n'roll attitude’.

Also on the opening day, the BFC is to host its first ‘sustainable fashion show’, aiming to prove that fashion need not cost the earth. The display will showcase the work of designers committed to eco-friendly creations, including Stella McCartney, People Tree and Vivienne Westwood. — AFP

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PARIS (Reuters) – French fashion king Yves Saint Laurent has died at the age of 71, hailed as a 20th century cultural icon who revolutionized the way women dressed.

The reclusive Saint Laurent’s couture creations won global fine art status and he was widely considered to be one of an elite club of designers including Christian Dior and Coco Chanel who made Paris the fashion capital of the world.

From Princess Grace of Monaco to the actress Catherine Deneuve, Saint Laurent’s creations adorned many famous women but he was also the first designer to make luxury labels accessible to a wider audience through innovative read-to-wear collections.

He exploded on to the world stage at just 21 and built up a clothes, perfumes and accessories empire that resulted in a 1989 stock market flotation — the first by a fashion house.

But Saint Laurent, whose death on Sunday was announced without any details of the cause, was plagued by health problems — he suffered from severe depression and underwent treatment for alcohol abuse.

French President Nicolas Sarkozy praised Saint Laurent as a creative genius. “He was convinced that beauty was a luxury that every man and woman needed,” Sarkozy said in a statement.

“(Coco) Chanel gave women freedom. Yves Saint Laurent gave them power,” Saint Laurent’s long-time friend and business partner Pierre Berge told France Info radio.

“(But) he was someone who was very shy and introverted, who had only very few friends and hid himself from the world.”

Saint Laurent, who retired in 2002, was widely credited with changing forever what women wore, making the trouser suit a daytime staple and the tuxedo an elegant option.

He also popularized safari jackets and thigh-high boots, and his transparent blouses made near-nudity acceptable in high society. His square-shouldered suits became classics and he simplified evening-wear, moving from shocking satins to flowing white crepe of Hellenic purity.

“He completely revamped a woman’s wardrobe,” luxury underwear designer Chantal Thomass told French radio. “His fashion was full of color and inspired by art.”

EARLY TALENT

The eldest child of a wealthy French industrialist, Saint Laurent was born and grew up in the then French colony of Algeria and showed a talent for design, making clothes for his younger sisters’ dolls.

At 17 he entered a Paris fashion school, and his sketch for a cocktail dress won first prize in an annual contest.

Introduced to Christian Dior, the gangly Saint Laurent was hired on the spot by the creator of the “New Look” and became his chief assistant. On Dior’s death in 1957, Saint Laurent became chief designer and swiftly outshone his mentor.

After his first collection introduced the widely copied “trapeze” silhouette with narrow shoulders and flared skirt, the shy 21-year-old was pushed out on to the Dior building balcony and crowds in the avenue below hailed him like royalty.

Saint Laurent directed Dior for three years, until drafted for military service during the Algerian war.

For a sensitive person whose homosexuality had made his school years a torture, army life was an ordeal. He had a nervous breakdown and spent nearly three months in hospital.

Berge got a businessman to provide backing for the young designer to establish his own fashion house, and Saint Laurent presented his first collection under his own name in 1962.

The “YSL” empire grew steadily and Saint Laurent showed an instinctive ability to sense what the mood on the streets was and turn it into high fashion.

But by the late 1980s his health problems were an issue.

Insiders said Saint Laurent, who never read newspapers or listened to the radio, became increasingly cut off from reality and lost touch with all but a tiny group of friends.

“Fame has destroyed him,” Berge once said.

“All designers have a bit of the megalomaniac in them — the only difference is that the fake designers, the bad ones, are happy megalomaniacs while the real ones are unhappy megalomaniacs. Saint Laurent is an unhappy megalomaniac.”

Despite the personal demons, his business empire thrived. The 1989 flotation was a runaway success.

But when the Gulf War erupted and the world economy slumped in the early 1990s, Berge and Saint Laurent sank into debt.

In 1992, YSL was absorbed by cosmetics and drugs company Sanofi, with Saint Laurent retaining creative control. Then in 1999 it was bought by the Gucci group, itself controlled by French luxury giant PPR.

Saint Laurent, rarely seen in public after his retirement, was awarded one of France’s top honors in 2007.

Actress Lindsay Lohan poses at the 2008 MTV Movie Awards in Los Angeles in this June 1, 2008 file photo. REUTERS/Mario Anzuoni/Files

Actress Lindsay Lohan poses at the 2008 MTV Movie Awards in Los Angeles in this June 1, 2008 file photo.

PARIS (Reuters Life!) – Hollywood actress and wild child Lindsay Lohan is working with fashion house Emanuel Ungaro on a spring-summer collection, to be unveiled at the ready-to-wear shows in Paris in October.

Paris-based Ungaro said in a statement on Wednesday it had named Lohan “artistic adviser” and she would work with newly appointed chief designer Estrella Archs, contributing her experience as a consumer of luxury goods.

Lohan, who starred in the 2004 movie “Mean Girls”, is known for her love of fashion and shopping, but over the past two years her creative endevours have been eclipsed by scandals, nightclub antics and drug problems.

She was briefly jailed in 2007 after being convicted of drunk driving and cocaine possession, and made to wear an electronic monitoring ankle bracelet.

The 23-year-old has recently been trying to rebuild her career, starring in an ABC Family television movie and launching a new production company.